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It has an intensity and vibrancy that are both its fascination and its horror.

For many visitors, dealing with the city is an exercise in damage limitation, as they struggle through bus fumes and crowds. The extremities of life in the city are plain to see: glass skyscrapers tower over sprawling slums and shoeless widows peddle cigarettes to designer-clad clubbers.

The last few years have seen a concerted effort to boost civic pride, improve transport, add greenery and address pollution. Guatemala City has grown at an incredible rate, escalating in the s and s as waves of internal refugees sought an escape from the civil war in the countryside. Economic migrants continue to flock to the capital, the population explosion filling once-uninhabited deep ravines with precarious new barrios. Guatemala City enjoys a moderate climate all year round, so you can visit almost any time.

Thanks to its high altitude, humidity is never an issue and the nights are mild. Broadly speaking, the city is divided into two distinct halves. The northern section is mainly comprised of Zona 1, the historic, if run-down part of town containing the main plaza, the Parque Central, some museums and many of the first-class bus company terminals.

Brief history of Guatemala City

Zona 2 even further north also has a couple of sights. The modern half of the city is to the south, comprising Zonas 9 and 10, which are separated by Avenida La Reforma. Further south still, Zonas 13 and 14 hold wealthy, leafy suburbs and are home to the airport, a cluster of guesthouses and more museums and cinemas. Zona 4 serves as a buffer between the two parts of town.